400 Black And White Film – Ilford HP5 Plus 400 has been my mainstay since I started shooting with black and white film. Black and white is the main way I work, but I shot primarily in color up until a little over a year ago. How I look at photography changed completely after reading Sally Mann’s memoir,
I saw the full potential of working in black and white for the first time, and picked up some Ilford HP5 Plus 400 shortly after finishing the book.
400 Black And White Film
The two rolls that appear in this post were shot on different days. The landscapes are from a trip to Marfa, and the photos are from an afternoon with my sister. I pictured her wearing a woolen vest that I had just finished knitting.
Harman Disposable Camera. Ilford Xp2 Super Iso 400 Black And White Film. Oxford, United Kingdom.
Portraits are my favorite type of photography. Ironically, they cause me the most anxiety before the event. Landscapes are simple because you are on one person’s time: yours, and no one is watching you create (not to mention the skill it takes to create a strong landscape image). Photos can be great because you don’t want to waste your subject’s time, and your subject is actively watching you while you work for a newbie (or even a well-versed photographer) who can feel a bit like someone that breathes down your neck. Fortunately, over time, the act of taking someone’s portrait becomes easier. In full transparency, I have tried other films (see my TMax review here), but HP5 is still my favorite.
Hot tip: Want to send your rolls to a lab you trust? Check out FieldMag’s article on the 10 best mail order photo labs across the US.
This film is low contrast with medium grain. It is made by Ilford, the leading company in the production of black and white film stocks. Ilford has been in the game for a long time, and its makers know what they are doing.
Because it has a large exposure latitude, even if you underexpose or overexpose some of your shots, your film will still come out usable.
Ilford Hp5 Plus 135/36 Black & White Negative Film (400 Iso/asa)
Ilford HP5 Plus has been taken by photographers for almost 100 years. It began as hypersensitive panchromatic plates in 1931 and is now available in 35mm, 120mm, 4×5, and 8×10 film.
Looking to get 35mm film that will deliver excellent sharpness, fine grain, under all lighting conditions? Feed your Ilford HP5 PLUS 120 film camera film
Personally, HP5 Plus feels like an old faithful friend at this point. When the HP5 is in my camera, I know I’m using film I can rely on. I don’t have to worry if I overexpose the shot. In general, shooting in black and white is a different experience than shooting in color as you are not guided by the colors in front of you as much as by the composition. I understand that composition also plays a role in color photography, but black and white takes away your ability to distract the viewer from a messy composition. If your composition is off in a black and white photo, it’s obvious. Maybe that’s part of the thrill of black and white photography?
This stock works beautifully for both landscapes and portraits. Its forgiving nature allows me to feel confident that my exposures will almost always come out as they should, so instead of worrying about whether the film will do its job, I can just focus on the task at hand: the nailing composition. It is especially useful to have reliable film when you are a portrait photographer. There are so many moving parts in a photo shoot; perhaps the most disturbing element is the social aspect. You want your subject to feel comfortable, you want your rapport to be natural, you don’t have time to think about whether your film stock is one you can trust! HP5 to the rescue.
Black And White Perfected: First Sentiments With The · Lomography
Although not feature-rich, in the right conditions, this thing can capture some pretty inspiring images. Check out our comprehensive review to see what we have to say.
As usual, I was stoked with the results of my Ilford HP5 Plus 400 rolls. I developed them in the Ilfotec HC developer – I did not make or draw the dev time and I scanned using Silverfast software. I did minimal editing to my photos – just a dust correction, and they came out exactly how I wanted them. Even after comparing the photos with the nice results from the TMax 400 rolls, I think I’ll stick with the HP5 Plus shooting.
💌 There’s More! Did you enjoy this read? Subscribe now and receive all the latest and greatest articles straight to your inbox. All original. Community first. 100% ad-free. Ilford XP2 Super 400 is a black and white film that your local lab can process easily and cheaply because it is developed using the C41 chemical, but did you know that it can also be developed with -using true black and white developers and it will still give wonderful results?! Read on to find out!
This is not something new, I have already read in a few forums on the internet about this black and white C41 film being processed in a true black and white developer like Rodinal using the stands development method. They say it gives contrasting results, some say it gives more latitude of exposure, so I got curious. After a few rolls of it, I decided to try the intriguing result.
To The Darkside: Finally Embracing Black And White Film
Just like what I read, people use a stand development method for this film. Stand development is simply using a very dilute developer solution, and having a longer development time, usually an hour. In my case I used PaRodinal, Basically it is home made Rodinal with Paracetamol as an additive. I used the 1 + 100 dilution (5ml Parodinal, 500ml water), and developed the film for an hour. For 60 excruciating minutes, I was afraid that nothing would come out of my film. When the chemicals were poured, the juice was light purple in color. Then I washed, fixed and checked the negative.
The result, purple negative, contrast. I was thrilled to check the details and contrast with the film produced, it was even better than the one processed by my lab. I had it scanned by my local lab, and was surprised that it produced quite pleasing frames. If you ever have time, and access to processing your own films, I suggest you give it a try too, we Lomographers love cross processing anyway. And maybe one day, it will also be seen as a true black and white film! Check them out!
Astonuts, harveyh, ehernan1, lizkoppert, majooo, rbruce63, le_ors, niko_fuzzy, ivegotjewels, amro, deepfried_goodness, neanderthalis, minchi, vicker313, daisymae, earlybird, adi_totp, sirio. it’s my 400 speed, 35mm black and white film guide. In this guide, I will be comparing every 400 ISO black and white film that is actively being produced and readily available for the US market, that I know of.
Before we get into it, you should know that I am a movie buff, but a novice in every sense of the word. Experienced film shooters will probably find my film review a bit naive and perhaps insufficient. That’s fine, I’m not doing this for them. I’m making this guide because I haven’t found anything else out there that does this kind of in-depth comparison, which includes the new movies released in 2017. The moment a more seasoned film expert decides to make one of these better, I’ll gladly point people to her or his guide. But in the meantime, I’ll do the best I can and appreciate the patience of those with more experience.
An Ultimate Guide To Every B&w Iso 400 35mm Film On The Market
You should also know that this will not be a short guide. We proceed like this. First I’ll explain how I conducted the testing for this guide, in the most transparent way possible. Next, I will talk about the history and characteristics of each of these emulsions. If you are going to skip a section, this may be a good candidate, although, some may find this fascinating. After that, we get to the most important section, and that is the blind testing to help you and I figure out what kind of movie we find the most attractive. Finally, I will give you my own analysis, for those who are interested.
Now, you should know that the way one of these films looks, how much grain, contrast, sharpness, tonality, etc. can all be drastically affected by your choice of developer, your development technique, and your scanning technique. The good news there is that, within reason, you can probably make most any combination of film, developer, scanning, and post-processing get results you’re very happy with if you experiment for a while long enough. And any experienced film photographer will tell you that’s exactly what you should do.
Choose a film and developer that works for your budget and workflow, and start experimenting with developers, development times and methods. But, we all need a place to start. I’m hoping this guide will give you a starting point. If it piques your interest in a specific movie or introduces you to a movie
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